Travel & Archaeology

The Makings of Asturias

Celts, Visigoths and Wonderful Views.

The Makings of Asturias

8 days


per person

Celts and Visigoths, a rugged coast and spectacular mountains all combine in this hidden gem of northern Spain. Two professors of archaeology from Oxford University guide you through Celtic castros and pre-Romanesque architecture as you enjoy some of the most inspiring yet lesser-known sights in Atlantic Europe.


  • The beautiful scenery of north-western Spain; mountains, seacoasts, and forests.
  • The impressive ‘castro’ strongholds of the Celtic tribes who resisted Rome.
  • Unparalleled Visigothic remains with some of the finest early-medieval buildings in Europe.
  • A dedicated itinerary led by two specialists in their field, supported by a local Asturian guide.


The first half of our two-centred tour is based in the attractive coastal town of Navia and focuses on the Iron Age ‘castro culture’ of the Celtic Astures, which is also an ideal way of exploring the remoter areas and wilder landscapes of the region. The second half of our tour is based in Oviedo, capital of the Visigoth Kingdom, from where arose a highly accomplished Christian art and architecture, the reconquista of Spain from the Moors, the pilgrimage to Santiago,  and the ultimate origins of the Spanish nation.

See the ‘Itinerary’ tab above for full itinerary details.

Dates & Prices:

  • 21–28 June 2019. Only £1575. Last few places remaining.

Single supplement only £190. Reserve your place early for the lowest price.

What’s Included:

  • Seven nights’ accommodation with four nights in Navia and three nights in Oviedo.
  • All breakfasts and four evening meals, three of which are in traditional local restaurants.
  • Daily excursions with all transport, entrances and guiding.
  • Airport transfers in Asturias.
  • Flexible flight arrangements.
  • 100% TTA financial guarantee.

Your Tour Directors

Gary Lock is Emeritus Professor of Archaeology at the University of Oxford, where he has taught and researched for many years. He specialises in the Iron Age, has carried out fieldwork in the UK, Spain and Italy, and co-directed the recent ‘Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland’ project.

Mike Sibly graduated in history from Cambridge University and is now a member of Oxford University’s History Faculty, and an Emeritus Fellow of St Anne’s College, Oxford. He has taught at the university over many years and was Deputy Registrar until 2015. Amongst other things he has published two translations of medieval accounts of the Albigensian Crusade, and recently walked the pilgrimage route across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostella.

Activity Level

Some of the castro archaeological sites on the first half of this tour are in mountainous terrain, but they simply require some gentle uphill and downhill walking in order to get around them. There are no hikes or long walks, the pace is always gentle, and most of the sites on the tour will present little challenge for those with a reasonable level of mobility and independence. Please feel free to ask us for more details.

Flights and Extended Stays

Flights are added on a personal basis rather than included in the tour price. This gives you complete freedom to choose your preferred departure airport, flight times, length of stay, airline etc. We will be pleased to quote and book flights for you, and any extended stays, or you can book your own if you prefer. Flights booked with us are fully ATOL protected and can be available from as little as £100 return.

How To Book

Reservations & Enquiries: To reserve your place or enquire further simply fill in the booking form on this page, or call us on (UK) 0121 444 1854. There is no commitment and no payment at this stage; reservations are purely provisional until we have confirmed availability and proceeded with booking and payment.

Booking & Payment: Once you have checked availability and reserved your place, we will require your full details and a deposit of £250 per person to secure your booking. This can be done with a credit/debit card over the telephone (0121-444-1854) or by sending us a completed booking form and cheque. To print a booking form click here.

See our booking conditions for further details.

All Hidden History’s tours include a host of fully guided excursions and interesting talks to create an enriching travel experience. They also include some luxury and leisure by choosing great hotels and keeping the itineraries fairly relaxed and varied. More about What to Expect…

  • Departure Time
    Exclusive to 21 June 2019 only.

Day 1: Arrivals.

You are met on arrival at Oviedo airport and transferred to your hotel in the delightful Spanish town of Navia (45 minutes), where you can meet your tour directors, Gary Lock and Trevor Rowley. Your four night stay here includes two evening meals in typical local restaurants, the first of which will depend on everyone’s  flight arrival times.


Day 2: Navia, Castro de Coaña and Castro de Pendia.

After breakfast, Professor Lock will present a lecture setting the scene for the first half of our tour in which we explore the cultural and natural heritage of western Asturias, focusing on its magnificent Celtic castros. We then visit Navia’s main archaeological site, Castro de Coana. This large and impressive fortified settlement from Iron Age and Roman times has long been at the heart of archaeological research in the region, and now also has an interesting interpretation centre on the castro culture. Walking through the site, we see a fortified ‘acropolis’ and a lower settlement where some 80 houses are visible, together with a network of streets and squares running between them.

After time for lunch in the town, we follow the valley of the River Navia upstream. The valley has been designated as an historical park and the road passes through mountains cloaked in forests, with views over the Arbón reservoir. We detour to the village of Pendía and take a short walk (500 metres) through evocative woods to reach Castro de Pendia. Here we find examples of Asturian ‘saunas’ and ‘communal buildings’ as well as houses. We then return to our hotel in Navia.


Day 3: Castro de Chao San Martín, Grandas de Salime and Castro de San Isidro.

Today we head into the wild interior of Asturias, where the landscapes of the Cantabrian Mountains offer spectacular views, traditional villages and a host of myths and legends. We stop at Castro de Chao San Martin, a key site in our understanding of castro culture. Settlement began here in the Bronze Age, around 800 BC, and grew into a major Iron Age and Roman centre for the mining of the region’s gold deposits. We stop for lunch in the nearby town of Grandas de Salime before continuing to Castro de San Isodro. This remote native settlement is protected by a system of ‘chevaux de frise’ standing stones, perhaps a defensive anti-cavalry measure. To complete our day’s circuit we follow the scenic Navia valley down to our hotel.


Day 4: Castro de Cabo Blanco, Ribadeo, Cathedral’s Beach and Castro de Mohías.

Heading west along the beautiful Asturian coastline, our first visit is to Castro de Cabo Blanco, dramatically sited on a coastal promontory. It is one of a group of maritime castros along this stretch of coast and has impressive defences which, by Roman times, enclosed a vast area extending landward from the promontory, making it one of the most important castros of the region.

We break for lunch in the lively port town of Ribadeo, on the border between Asturias and Galicia. The Old Town and harbour are an attractive mix of handsome old galleried and stone houses, and the restaurants and tapas bars are well known for their gastronomy. After lunch we stop at the most famous of the area’s beautiful beaches, Cathedral’s Beach, where constant pounding from the Atlantic Ocean has sculpted the rocks into dramatic formations, including huge natural arches which resemble cathedral architecture.

On our way back to Navia we can stop at the last of our castros, Castro de Mohías, which preserves an excellent urban layout of homes and streets. Returning to our hotel, Professor Rowley will introduce the next theme of our tour, the pre-Romanesque, before we enjoy an included dinner in one of the town’s splendid restaurants.


Day 5: Transfer to Oviedo via the churches of Santianes de Pravia, Santo Adriano, Santa Cristina de Lena.

We move on chronologically and geographically today, transferring to Oviedo, the capital of Asturias since Visigoth times. En-route we begin our exploration of the region’s important pre-Romanesque heritage with a stop at the church of Santianes de Pravia, founded as a chapel for the Visigoth King of Asturias in the 8th century AD. The foundation stone has an intriguing inscription in the form of a letter labyrinth, which appears to have inspired Salvador Dali’s painting A Propos of the ‘Treatise on Cubic Formby Juan de Herrera. Next we visit the church of St Adriano de Tunon, founded as a monastic church by Visigoth King Alfonso III of Asturias in the 9th century. It survives more or less in its original condition and contains well preserved mural paintings.

We stop for lunch in Pola de Lena, an ancient town known as the gateway to Asturias and a natural crossroads through the mountains. Here we find the UNESCO World Heritage site of Santa Cristina de Lena, one of the best preserved and beautifully sited of the pre-Romanesque churches of Asturias. Dating from around 850 AD, it incorporates re-used 7th century material. Arriving in Oviedo, we settle in to our well-appointed city centre hotel where dinner is included this evening.


Day 6: Oviedo and the Church of Santa Maria de Bendones.

Oviedo contains a very rich architectural history, with many buildings dating back to the early medieval period, and now national monuments of World heritage status. Our tour begins just outside the city with the 9th century church of Santa Maria de Bendones, and then continues to the city’s Monte Narenco. Here Visigoth King Ramiro I built his royal palace in the 9th century, a complex of buildings which included the striking basilica of St Miguel de Lilo. In the 12th century a new and equally fine palace church was built, known as Santa Maria de Narenco, with Visigothic, Byzantine and Carolingian architectural influences. Pre-dating all of these was the church of San Julian de los Prados, now the oldest and largest of Oviedo’s surviving pre-Romanesque buildings, with a remarkable set of early 9th century murals.

Arriving in the city centre we break for lunch in the Old Quarter, where the tapas bars are highly recommended. In the afternoon we explore the quarter’s pedestrianised historic streets, and visit the Cathedral church of San Salvador. Built mostly in the flamboyant Gothic style, it has long guarded the greatest symbols of Asturias, relics also visited by the pilgrims heading for the holy city of Santiago de Compostela. The rest of the day is free to enjoy the atmosphere of this elegant, historic city and choose to dine in one of its many traditional restaurants.


Day 7: Lastres and the churches of Salvador de Valdedios, Salvador de Priesca and Santiago de Gobiendes.

Our final day takes us along the beautiful Costa Verde of Asturias, known for its verdant coastal scenery and pretty maritime towns and villages. We stop in Lastres, where traditional houses and cobbled streets tumble down to a busy fishing harbour. It is a wonderful place for a typical Asturian seafood lunch. The day also allows us to conclude our exploration of early Medieval Asturian history by visiting three interesting examples of 10th century architecture, at its transition into the full European Romanesque. These are the churches of Salvador de Valdedios, Salvador de Priesca and Santiago de Gobiendes. Finally, this evening we include a farewell dinner in one of Oviedo’s typical cider houses, an opportunity to celebrate your week’s experiences, new knowledge and friendships.


Day 8: Departures

You will be transferred from your hotel to Oviedo airport for your flight home. Or why not stay longer and enjoy more of the cultural and natural splendors of northern Spain?

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